Oris 65 Diver - 42mm Review
Like many things people are interested in, heritage is an important part of the watch collecting community. Whenever I open an article about a new watch that’s just come out, inevitably it’s compared and contrasted against everything that it references in the past. There is such a deep and broad horological history to pull from that when a new watch is designed that you have to acknowledge where we’re coming from when we look at something new. This is especially true when we look at heritage branded piece.
Oris is an independent Swiss brand. They have been self owned and run since 1904 and for the consumer this is a very good thing. Oris provides an incredibly finished watch, on par with the big swiss luxury brands, for a much lower price.
The first dive watches from Oris were released back in the in the 1960’s and they stayed pretty true to them with these reissues. Main differences being size, they modernized the watches by making them universally larger, (40 and 42mm vs the 36 and 38) and they added automatic movements whereas the original Oris Divers were hand wind. That’s pretty much all I can tell at least, the info on classic Oris’ is pretty sparse.
Anyway, first let’s get into some specs:
Case: 42mm w/crown
Lug to Lug: 50mm
Case Thickness: 14.9
Lug Width: 21mm
Weight on Bracelet: 4.7oz
The Oris diver I’m reviewing is the 42mm version, they also made it in 40mm but for my particular wrist size I liked the 42. I also preferred the dial… But I won’t go down that rabbit hole, they’re both good watches. It’s an incredibly comfortable watch to wear… One thing I really love about watches like this is the case height. The 65 sits low and close to your wrist, it will be unlikely that you’re going to snag this as you reach into cabinets or on a door jam as you’re coming around the corner. Trim cases like this really show an art form and a degree of forethought sadly lacking in many designs out there. A watch needs to feel like an extension of yourself, and not like an appendage sticking up off your arm. The 65 does this so well.
The Oris 65 diver runs on what Oris calls their “Oris 733,” which is essentially a Sellita SW200, which again is essentially an ETA 2824 clone with the exception of their addition of a jewel to the movement, making it a 26 jewel automatic movement. So… my experience with the 65 diver’s movement is pretty simple an easy to explain: It’s keeping COSC, using the Hairspring app which is the best method for me to test the accuracy of my watch it’s averaging +0.3s/day which is more than I could ask for for a non COSC certified watch. I’m sure that’ll adjust as time goes on, but for now it’s excellent.
Dial, Crystal, & Bezel:
The 65’s dial is a rich, deep blue with applied indices at all the hour markers. The quarter hour markers are larger with the biggest one being at noon. The lume they used is a faux patinaed formulation of Super Luminova. All the indices themselves are polished with a faint golden hue to match the lume. The crystal is a beautifully domed sapphire crystal that has anti-reflection coatings on the inside. The bezel has a black insert with silver markers and numerals, the pip at 12 is lumed, it’s a 120-click unidirectional diving bezel.
So one thing I’ve noticed about Oris watches and they way they finish their applied indices is that they catch light and have a sort of “jewel” like quality. The hands and hour markers shine and sparkle in a way that’s pretty unique to these watches, at least in my experience. This makes it pretty easy to read, but also gives it a lustrous quality that really jumps off the wrist. It’s a level of finishing that really sets it as a peer amongst the other big swiss brands, although perhaps without the name recognition.
The crystal reminds me of my old speedmaster, with an immense bubble dome that stick up above the bezel. However in this case the crystal is sapphire instead of Hesalite, and thusly will repel most scratches. One thing I love about this particular watch is the way the crystal reflects the world around it, now technically speaking this isn’t something you’d want in a utility watch, but from an aesthetic point of view I think it only contributes the the jewel-quality of the Oris 65.
So the lume… It’s a faux vintaged lume, which isn’t something I’d normally be into. Oris has even done some watches in this manner that I really did not like, reference the Aquis Carlos Coste LE that has a dark orange Superluminova. On the Diver 65 however I think it at least fits the overall aethetic. If I could choose, I would have asked Oris to opt for brighter non-patinaed lume over what they did since it’s not the brightest lume I’ve ever seen… But it’s functional and does what it’s supposed to on a dark night.
Lastly the bezel, this is pretty straight forward. It’s a traditional diving bezel, aluminum insert with the marks left bare so as to contrast. It has serrated edges and provides excellent grip, the 120-clicks are super positive and line up perfectly with the minute markers. Really all there is to be said about that.
The 65 Diver comes on a variety of straps and a steel bracelet. My favorite options are either the bracelet (like I have) or the OEM Nato with a deployant buckle. The lug with on the 65 is 21mm, I HATE this lug width and I’m not particularly sure why watch companies insist on using this width when it is clearly not a generally accepted strap width. Moving past that, the bracelet tapers to 18mm at the buckle. I have found it to be very comfy to wear, and it looks super classy. I wish the links were screw together, but I can get past that. They’ve done an interesting thing aesthetically and made the bracelet resemble old riveted bracelets on the links closest to the watch head itself. Just a cool thing to see. I’d love to get the deployant NATO as well, we’ll see how it goes until then.
I like the Oris 65 Diver. It’s a great heritage series watch from Oris, and would make a great addition to any watch collection. Now, inevitably whenever I post pictures of this to watch groups I get a response from someone I don’t know that goes something like this: “100m Depth Rating ONLY?!!?!? How can this watch call itself a diver my (insert something cheaper, maybe a Seiko) is more than that, what a ripoff,” and that is a fair argument but keep this in mind. Being a 100m diver meets ISO 6425 requirements, in terms of depth rating. Most recreational divers don’t go below 30m (~98ft) and if you’re going to be doing some serious hardcore diving then this probably isn’t the watch for you. I suggest the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge. However in terms of a classy, heritage inspired, sports watch I don’t really think you can do much better than the Oris 65 in either size.